Think that deeper skintones are naturally protected from sun damage? That assumption could be deadly.
Skin cancer rates among Caucasians have been climbing steadily over
the last decade, but so too are the number of incidences in ethnic skin.
At the core of the problem is the (erroneous) belief that ethnic skin
is immune from the sun’s carcinogenic rays. “People need to realize that
skin of color burns too,” says YouBeauty Dermatology Expert,
Jeanine B. Downie, M.D. “Radiation absorbed from the sun can have you seeing cancer down the road.”
However, while it’s hard to find data comparing skin cancer rates
between white and non-caucasian skin types, we do know that melanoma
mortality rates among darker-skin people are disproportionately higher.
That’s because all these forms of cancer tend to be diagnosed at a later
stage when they’re often advanced and potentially fatal, explains Dr.
Mona Gohara, M.D., assistant clinical professor at Yale University
School of Medicine’s department of dermatology.
“Bob Marley died at age 36 from a melanoma that started under a
toenail and spread to his brain,” says Maryland dermatologist, Dr.
Noelle S. Sherber. “Lesions in these areas tend to grow horizontally and
spread out on the skin’s surface, so early detection is key.”
Non-melanoma skin cancers are also on the rise. The milder, basal
cell carcinoma is predominantly found among Caucasians, Hispanics and
Asians, while the more aggressive squamous cell carcinoma most commonly
strikes the African American and Asian Indian communities and can
metastasize to other organs quickly.
Research has found that basal cell carcinomas occur primarily on the
parts of the body that receive the most UV exposure. Squamous cell
carcinomas show up in exposed areas too, but also exhibit on legs and in
the anogenital region on African American skin. Pay close attention to
any lesion that bleeds, oozes, crusts, won’t heal or lasts longer than a
month; in those cases see a dermatologist immediately.
Experts point to a cultural lack of sun awareness and education among
many ethnic groups as a factor. While Caucasians tend to be versed in
the ABCDE warning signs of skin cancer (asymmetry, border irregularity,
color, diameter and evolution) and are more likely to schedule regular
skin cancer screenings with a dermatologist, it’s a popular belief among
minorities that skin of color provides a natural shield and such
vigilant care isn’t necessary.
“Higher levels of melanin in skin affords you a certain level of protection, but people need to understand that it
doesn’t
circumvent the risk,” says Downie. “Until that message gets across, I
think it’s going to be depressing when it comes to statistics and who
dies from skin cancer.”
Results from a recent L’Oréal study on minorities and skin cancer reveal that message is still far from taking hold.
In that survey, 65 percent of minority respondents said they didn’t
consider themselves at risk for skin cancer, while 62 percent of African
American adults said they’ve never even worn sunscreen. Only a meager
31 percent of minorities have performed a skin cancer check, and 17
percent have had a full body examination by a dermatologist.
“The bottom line is that everyone needs to wear a full spectrum
sunscreen of SPF 30 daily and get a body check at least once a year,”
says Downie, who adds that if you have a family history of skin cancer,
it should be twice a year, and even more often than that for those
previously diagnosed with skin cancers. “I have an under 35-year-old
patient who just had a melanoma removed six weeks ago and already we
think we’ve just found another one,” says Downie. “That’s unusual, but
if you’ve had an unsafe sun history these spots can pop up fast.”
Experts say environmental change is one reason skin cancer in
minorities is soaring. “Ozone depletion makes today’s sun more damaging
than ever,” says Dr. Wendy Roberts, medical director of Desert
Dermatology Skin Institute in Rancho Mirage, CA.
And a culture seeped in an obsessive love of all things bronze has
some entering tanning beds in search of even more color. “The tanning
bed sun emits 12 to 15 times the ultraviolet radiation of the sun,”
warns Downie. “I have patients who say that tanning gives them a ‘base
tan’ of protection. Newsflash: a base tan is literally an SPF of three.”
But while the risk of skin cancer may be the most important reason to
protect against the sun, it’s often vanity that gets people to take
action, says Downie. “Most people think, ‘it’ll never be me who gets
cancer.’ But when you tell them, ‘it’ll be you who ages faster than your
sister,’—then suddenly you get people’s attention.”
The popular quip “black doesn't crack,” may have some truth to it
when it comes to wrinkling. But that higher melanin content also makes
skin of color more susceptible to discoloration. “African Americans,
Asians and Latinos age with patchy areas of pigmentation due to the
sun’s rays, whereas signs of aging in Caucasians tend emerge as fine
lines and wrinkles,” explains Downie.
Pigmentation is tricky for dermatologists to treat. Lasers may induce
an inflammatory darkening response while deep peels incite similar
complications. “If you wear sunscreen every day, you will age slower—and
that includes ethnic skin. It’s just a fact,” says Downie.
And then there’s the chalky texture issue with many sunscreen
formulas leaving pasty streaks of purple, gray or silver on dark skin.
“I hear that excuse from patients all the time,” says Downie, who is
herself of African American descent. “There are many micronized
varieties now that apply clearly,” she adds, citing the weightless
absorption of
Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch SPF 85 and
SkinMedica Daily Physical Defense SPF 30 as top picks among her patients of both Caucasian and ethnic backgrounds.
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